Front-load and top-load washing machines fail in a handful of predictable ways — and most are fixable without a major overhaul. We service every major brand sold in Canada, from Whirlpool and Maytag to Samsung and LG, plus high-end European models like Miele and Bosch. After the diagnostic we'll quote the repair in writing — some parts, especially for Miele, Bosch, and control boards, need to be ordered before the fix.
How a washer works
A washing machine moves through three subsystems on every cycle: fill (the water inlet valve lets water in based on the load and temperature you select), tumble (a motor turns the drum via a belt or direct drive, with a door lock keeping things safe), and drain (a pump pushes used water out through a hose). When something fails, the symptoms point to one of these three subsystems — which is how we diagnose.
What we typically fix
- 01
Won't drain or spin
The most common washer failure. Usually a clogged drain pump (often from a forgotten coin, bra wire, or sock that snuck past the filter), a worn pump impeller, or a stuck door lock that prevents the spin cycle from starting. The drain pump is a small motor that pushes water out — when it fails, clothes finish the cycle soaked. The door lock is a safety switch that confirms the door is closed before the drum spins fast; on most models, a failed lock looks identical to a failed spin cycle. We check both first.
- 02
Leaking from door, base, or hoses
Front-loaders most often leak from the door boot — the thick rubber gasket between the door and the drum, easily nicked by an underwire or zipper over hundreds of cycles. Less commonly the leak is from a cracked sump hose, a loose pump connection, or where the fill hose connects to the back. Top-loaders leak at the air dome tube or the centerpost seal. Identifying which leak you have means watching where water emerges during which part of the cycle.
- 03
Loud banging on spin cycle
If the drum thumps hard enough to walk the machine across the floor, the shocks (front-load) or suspension rods (top-load) have failed — these are the parts that dampen drum movement at high RPM. Less dramatically, worn drum bearings make a low grinding sound that gets louder over weeks. Shocks are cheap and quick. Bearings are the most invasive washer repair and usually mean opening the entire drum assembly — worth quoting carefully on machines older than eight years before committing.
- 04
Won't start, fill, or advance through the cycle
Could be the water inlet valve (clogged screen or failed solenoid — both prevent water from entering), the door lock switch (front-loaders won't start the cycle if they can't confirm the door is latched), or the control board on newer electronic models. Older top-loaders sometimes have a failed lid switch — the small plunger under the lid that tells the machine 'lid is closed.' We work through these from cheapest to most expensive.
- 05
Error codes on the display
Modern Samsung, LG, and Whirlpool washers throw specific codes (SUD, LE, OE, dE, F-something) that point at known faults. SUD usually means too much detergent or non-HE detergent — not always a repair. LE on LG often means the motor or hall sensor. OE means a drain failure. If you can tell us the code when you book, we cut diagnostic time in half and often arrive with the right part.
Types of washers we service
Different builds fail in different ways. Here's what we see most often across each type.
Front-loading
Front-load washers spin at higher RPM than top-loaders, which means more aggressive forces on the drum, shocks, and bearings. They also rely on a complex door boot (the rubber gasket between door and drum) that wears differently from a top-load lid seal. Common service points: leaking boots, worn shocks, drum bearings, and the door latch assembly. We service every major front-load brand sold in Canada.
Top-loading
Top-loaders are mechanically simpler than front-loaders, with fewer wear parts and easier access to most components. Common service points: lid switch, agitator dogs (which gather lint and small items over time), drive coupling, and the suspension rods that dampen drum movement. Repairs are typically faster and less expensive than front-load equivalents on similar machines.
Portable & compact
Portable washers — the kind you connect to a kitchen faucet — share most components with full-size machines but with simpler diagnostics, since most parts are accessible without major disassembly. We service compact European-spec washers (24-inch) common in apartments and laundry closets, including Bosch, Miele, and Asko models.
Signs your washer needs repair
- Cycle takes noticeably longer than it used to
- Soapy water still pooled in the drum when you open the door
- Vibration loud enough to hear from another room during spin
- Water pooling under or behind the unit
- A burning or hot-electric smell during operation
- Detergent visibly not dispensing from the drawer
- Clothes coming out wetter than usual
Try these before booking
Quick checks that resolve a meaningful share of washer calls without a tech visit.
- 01
Reset the machine
Unplug the washer from the wall for two minutes, then plug back in. Many error codes (especially Samsung and LG) clear with a full power cycle. If the code returns immediately on the next cycle, it's a real fault.
- 02
Check the drain pump filter
Front-load washers have an access panel near the bottom — usually a small flap on the lower right. Behind it is a filter that catches coins, lint, and lost socks. Place a shallow tray underneath (water will come out), unscrew the filter cap, clear anything caught, and screw it back in. Run a quick rinse cycle to test. This solves a meaningful share of 'won't drain' calls.
- 03
Make sure the drain hose isn't kinked
Pull the machine forward a few inches and check that the drain hose isn't bent sharply or pushed too far down the standpipe. The hose should curve up to at least 24 inches above the floor and arch over into the drain.
- 04
Confirm the door is fully latched
On front-loaders, the door has to click shut. If you hear it click but the cycle won't start, the door switch may have failed — but first try closing it firmly (gently — the latch is plastic) and starting again.
- 05
Run an empty hot cycle with no detergent
If you're seeing suds or a SUD/dE error, run an empty cycle on hot water with nothing in the machine. This often clears residual detergent buildup. If errors persist on the next real load, book the diagnostic.
Parts we can replace
Parts we commonly replace during a washer repair.
- Drain pump
- Door lock assembly
- Door boot gasket (front-load)
- Drive belt
- Motor coupler
- Water inlet valve
- Shock absorbers (front-load)
- Suspension rods (top-load)
- Drum bearings
- Tub seal
- Lid switch (top-load)
- Hall sensor
- Control board
- Pump filter housing
- Drain and fill hoses
- Agitator dogs (top-load)
Before our visit
What to do
- Empty the drum and unplug at the wall if reachable
- Take a photo of any error code on the display before turning the machine off
- Move laundry baskets, detergent, and anything blocking access to the back of the machine
- Have the model number ready — printed on the door rim or behind the lid
Finding the model number
Front-load: open the door and look at the metal rim or the inside of the door frame. Top-load: lift the lid and look inside the lid frame or the cabinet near the hinges. The number typically starts with letters and runs 8–12 characters. A clear photo works — we just need to read it.
Safety
Washing machines use both 120V power and a pressurised water supply. We always disconnect at the wall and turn off the supply valves before opening any panel. If your unit is hardwired (uncommon for residential laundry, occasionally seen in condo installations), mention it when booking — we'll bring the right tools.
Why hire Mendwell for washer repair
Same-Day Service
Fast turnaround across the GTA. We aim to get your appliance running the same day you call.
Emergency Repair
Fast response for urgent appliance breakdowns. We're here when you need us most.
Warranty on Parts & Labour
Every repair is backed by a warranty on parts and labour. We stand behind the work.
Customer Satisfaction
Your satisfaction is our priority. Personal service on every visit, every time.
Affordable Pricing
Transparent, upfront pricing with no hidden fees. Free estimates before any work starts.
Licensed Technicians
Skilled, licensed technicians ready to handle every repair with care and expertise.
Common questions
Specific to washer repair.
How long does a typical washer repair take?
Can I run laundry between the diagnostic visit and the repair?
My washer is throwing an HE detergent error (SUD, dE). Is that a repair?
Do you charge differently for high-end European brands like Miele or Bosch?
How long should a washing machine last?
Is it worth repairing my washer, or should I replace it?
Why is my washer not turning on at all?
Why is my washer leaking?
Why is my washer making squeaking or grinding noises?
Why does my washer smell bad?
What should I do to maintain my washer?
Worth knowing
How long washers last
Modern washers last 8–12 years with normal use; front-loaders tend toward the lower end of that range, top-loaders the upper. Bearings, shocks, and control boards are the parts most likely to fail in years 8–10. Repairs make economic sense up to about year 8; past that, we'll usually quote the repair alongside replacement cost so you can decide.
What we don't service
We work on residential and small light-commercial (condo amenity-room scale) washers. We don't service heavy commercial laundromat machines, coin-operated units, or industrial laundry equipment.
Where we work
We dispatch washer technicians across the GTA — often same-day. See all coverage areas →
Other things we repair
Dryer
Electric and gas dryer repair, including ventless heat-pump models. Often same-day across the GTA.
Fridge
Built-in, counter-depth, French-door, and side-by-side refrigerator repair. Sealed-system work performed by certified technicians.
Freezer
Upright, chest, and integrated freezer repair. We handle defrost system, thermostat, and sealed-system faults.
Dishwasher
Panel-ready, integrated, and freestanding dishwasher repair with proper reinstallation under cabinetry.
Oven
Wall-oven, double-oven, and steam-oven repair. Calibration, igniter replacement, and control board service.
Stove
Slide-in, freestanding, dual-fuel, and pro-style range repair. Gas-line work coordinated with licensed installers.
Cooktop
Induction, radiant, and gas cooktop repair, including high-end integrated models found in custom kitchens.
Microwave
Over-the-range, built-in trim-kit, and drawer microwave repair, including combination convection units.
Range Hood
Wall, island, and insert range hood repair. Motor replacement, fan balancing, and LED lighting service.
Wine Cooler
Dual-zone and single-zone wine refrigerator repair for built-in and freestanding installations.
Ice Maker
Standalone and built-in ice maker repair, including clear-ice and nugget machines.